I’m not always in the mood for a ginormous snowflake, I like medium-sized things too.
When I wanted to scale down the size of my original wooden snowflake plans, I felt like I needed to take away the “stacking” part. That meant less of a 3-D/layered look, and more time spent in the math area of my brain to figure out all the angles. I hate math.
I even hate typing it: “math” maaaath. mAtH!!! ma-ma-math!!
All joking aside, when I figured it out, I was a little angry at myself for procrastinating because it is actually quite simple.
Now I’m going to tell you my secret that probably everyone already knows, but I ask you not to point that out to me.
Here’s my secret/not secret.
These snowflake angles are all cut at 30°!
I know! I couldn’t believe it either!
After two years of mulling it over in my brain, it just sort of popped up out of nowhere.
I finally figured that it had to be the same angle at all intersections, because it’s a symmetrical thing with equal spacing.
Before I confuse myself again and stare at the floor for a time, I’ll move right ahead and try to explain it with pictures.
Armed with a long strip of 1 inch by 1 inch wood (square dowels from the hardware store would work too), and my Ryobi miter saw, I began.
These are the pieces and measurements I needed for a 12″ snowflake.
Here’s a shot of how the arms of the snowflake come together. I’ll call it the intersection. Notice how one strip is one solid piece. This is important for overall stability.
When I did these intersection pieces below, I cut the intersection angles first, then trimmed up the straight end cut to make them each 5.5 inches. (like pictured above)
See? Snowflake intersection.
You’ll notice two pieces have a point in the middle, and two are cut at a slant.
I just wanted to point that out for some reason.
I’ll back it up for a sec and show you a photo montage of the cutting in an effort to help explain:
It might look confusing, (I’ll be honest- it looks confusing to me, and I was there that day.) but the saw blade never leaves the 30° angle setting.
Note: The two arm pieces that have the point in the center, are made by cutting one side, then flipping it over to cut the other side, giving you a point in the center.
The twelve little snowflake tips were secured with glue and nails. (Thank goodness I had 1.25″ nails in my nail gun, to attach the 1″ tip pieces.)
By the way, you’ll want at least 1.25″ nails in your nail gun.
How the heck was I going to secure my intersection?.. Did you think I had a plan?..
Well after I navel-gazed for a while about how I like to “wing it” all the time, I remembered my Kreg Mini Jig.
I used the Kreg Mini Jig because I only wanted my screws to enter the anchor piece a little bit, so they wouldn’t bump into each other. Also, I could play around and maneuver the jig for hole placement.
Observaton: I checked how to spell “maneuver”, and google says that’s the correct spelling however, it looks wrong to me…
Oh, I almost forgot this little image strip. I thought it might be handy, but who knows.
Wait. I also did a variation on the snowflake I just shared, in case I wanted to make some even smaller.
It’s basically done the same, but with smaller measurements, and two thin hexagon pieces to “sandwich” the snowflake intersection together.
Using glue alone would probably work fine with one this small and lightweight, but I like to overdo things occasionally.
To start this off I drew a hexagon on a thin piece of plywood, making sure at least one edge of the hexagon, was drawn along a straight edge of the wood.
In the image below, I call that the “original edge”.
After each cut, I turned/flipped the wood so the new edge I had just barely cut, was against the guide rail on the miter saw. Then I lined up my pencil line with the blade.
I hope this is helpful to someone out there…
Thanks for reading!
Check out my Reclaimed Wood Snowflakes too.
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