You can tell a lot about an object, by it’s patina.
When I’ve got to fake a patina on a painted surface, I use any variation of these 3 things:
*dirt (no, really.)
First of all, I’ll talk about stain.
(Keep in mind that I save these antiquing techniques until very last. Meaning.. I usually distress the paint first.)
Using stain over paint is tricky sometimes, because if you apply it to chalk paint or flat paint, it’s going to soak right in and be pretty dark (whereas, a semi-gloss paint isn’t going to absorb that much.)
In my example pictured below, I wanted to add some really dark stain around the detail pieces.
I concentrated on areas I felt would “collect” the most patina over time.
This next picture shows using stain to create a “shadow” from an add-on piece.
And because anything metal seems to “bleed” into the wood over time, I did this:
It looks pretty dark, I know. But next I apply glaze over all the surface and it balances it out.
Now for the 2nd “thing” I use: Glaze.
I use a small brush to smear glaze into all the corners and crevices.
I have found that I get a better result if I over-apply, and wipe off.
Also, if I feel like not enough glaze wiped off, I wipe with a mineral spirits soaked rag.
Over-application, then wiping, will ensure that all the little details and crevices get filled with glaze.
When glazing a surface that’s textured, (like my example in the pictures) it’s good to apply/wipe in all directions too.
I cover every bit of surface with the glaze.
(Full coverage will help avoid the awful streaks.)
I like to wipe off immediately with clean paper towels…
And that’s it!
Oh, I almost forgot to talk about the 3rd thing I use to add a patina…
I’ll save that for another time. 🙂
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