Refinished Dining Table
Here we have a table:
Leslie has owned this table for quite a while, and recently she thought it was time for an update.
And, so it begins.
I don’t like this part. It’s gooey.
Chemical strippers… (I don’t even have the energy to make up a “sound” to add, in an attempt to express the exasperation I feel.)
I hate this part.
Did I mention I’m not fond of this step?
But hey, on the upside, I use this opportunity to clean off my tools and brushes that have been waiting for the day I get the stripper out.
After spending too much time being sidetracked on tool cleaning, I used mineral spirits to clean off residue.
*Note: I only stripped the top, because I was painting the bottom and legs.
-Which leads me to the next photo, where I scuff up the bottom part of the table with steel wool.
(Ya know, so the primer will stick.)
After that, my ADD and sore back led me back to work on the top again, where I used my orbital sander. (100, then 180 grit)
*Note: As you can see from the different direction of the grain, this was a table with a laminate veneer. (Not real wood through and through.)
After I sanded, I wiped all of the dust up with a rag and mineral spirits.
*WAIT! Insert statement about how I wore my respirator throughout the project.
Next came the taping/covering of the top so the spray paint overspray wouldn’t get on it.
(Much like the yellow paint on the plastic sheet below. That’s plastic I used in my last project where I made a dresser, yellow. So… overspray happens.)
I used Kilz in the spray can to prime, and this was the paint I used after that. (Sanding/dusting off in between coats.)
After the paint dried on the bottom part, I used some brown glaze that belongs to my sis in-law. (hi Kara! I can’t remember… did you say I could keep it?)
It gets pretty messy.
I like to apply a lot,
*Note: In my experience, glaze tends to look better if you over apply, and wipe off a lot, rather than not apply enough to begin with. But that’s just my experience.
Now we go back up to the top again, where I used Minwax oil based stain. (dark walnut)
(Obviously I didn’t avoid ALL of the yellow overspray from my previous project. Oops.)
The stain needed 8 hours before a top coat could be applied. (Do I sound smart when I repeat what it says on the back of the can?)
The really nice guy I’m married to, helped me move it outside (again) the next morning, where I applied the polyurethane (satin. minwax. wipe-on.)
I applied the wipe-on poly with a brush, because I was concerned about the stain coming off on the poly soaked rag. (This table top was a laminate that didn’t quite “soak up” the stain. The wipe-on version of polyurethane is super runny, and self levels like nobody’s business. That means minimal contact with the surface when I lightly spread it with the brush.)
And wouldn’t ya know it, this always happens:
(Tweezers took care of that fly in my poly. Ha Ha. Sorry! Had to say that- for my dad. We get each other.)
Later that day (about 6 hours), I applied more.
(In case anyone noticed, I didn’t have the table leafs (not “leaves”, right?…) tightened, because I didn’t want them sticking together. So, the table top isn’t actually uneven, like it appears.
A closer look:
Oh, and there were six of these too…
They were honey oakish like the table was, so I painted them to match the table base- but that’s a whole other blog post.
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